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two turns and the other half of the cards are woven backwards for two turns. Next, the entire pack is woven
backwards until the chevron pattern is complete.
4. The tablet woven border is woven around the base of the dress. The spiral pattern is alternated from a left spiral to a
right spiral periodically in the weaving to reduce the amount of the twisting. Changing which half of the pack is
turned backwards or forward when the spiral center is woven changes the spiral direction.
APRON DRESS DOCUMENTATION
The 10th and 11th century apron dress can be documented fairly well from archeological sites in Hedeby, Dublin, York and Birka. Birka and the
harbor at Hedeby produced fragments of women's clothing. Both The Viking by Roesahl and the Cultural Atlas of the Viking World agree that the
Viking woman wore an under dress that was sometimes pleated. Over the under dress was worn a pinafore dress that was made from wool or linen
which might be decorated with borders and bands. In later graves and finds the pinafore dress was often constructed from separate pieces and sewn
together. The dress was also tailored to fit the individual through tucks and pleats.
The Valkyrie figures found in archeological finds provide us an insight to the dress of Viking women. The two most common figures show the
women in side view. The figure with the Viking woman wear a shawl implies that the woman is wearing a flowing under dress and a closely fitted
over dress that is decorated at both the hem and part way up the front of the over dress. (Wooding p.90) The figure with the woman carrying the
drinking horn does not clearly indicate the type of dress. The figure clearly shows two types of fabric with the decorative details. An additional layer
may be indicated with the smooth surface on the figure. (Wooding p.91) These two figures show that Viking woman wore at least two layers, an
overdress and a flowing under dress.
Further insight into Viking Women's attire can also be found in the numerous wood and stone carvings found throughout the Viking world. One very clear stone carving is found in
Wayland. This carving illustrates and incident from the tale of Volound. This carving is of particular interest because a woman is clearly depicted next to the forge. A wood carving
found on the wooden cart found in the Oseberg ship burial depicts a woman with long flowing hair restraining a man from killing another man. She is wearing a large necklace and at
least three different types of materials. The carver depicted three patterns on her attire that could indicate different types of cloth. Finally, the Oseberg ship burial contains a tapestry that
illustrates many Viking women. The tapestry clearly shows women wearing two to three layers of clothing.
TABLET WEAVING BORDER DOCUMENTATION
Tablet weaving is a well-documented and universally accepted method of decorating Viking age garments. Bands have been found throughout the
Viking world to include Hedeby, York, Dublin, Birka and other large archeological sites. Several bands found in Mammen, Denmark include a
woolen band needing 17 tablets woven in 3/1 broken twill. Brocaded bands attached to long fillets have also been found in Mammen. Other finds
include the Oseberg ship burial with produced a band half completed still on the loom with 52 tablets. Part of the maniple of St Ulrich from the 10th
century is a diagonal stripe motif with spirals and "s" shapes. (Collingwood p.107, 8)
Tablet weaving in the Viking world was often woven into the garment. Previously it was believed that the tablet weaving was woven in prior to the
production of the fabric. Recent research conducted by Anna Norgard in the construction of tablet woven borders disputed the earlier theory. Mrs.
Norgard was asked to produce a reconstruction of the Vrangstrup cloak. She argued that it was far too time-consuming to use the weaving method
suggested through earlier research. Instead, she concluded that the twill fabric was produced first. Then the borders were woven into the fabric using
the loops from the twill weft to link the twill to the tablet-weaving weft. Lise Raeder Knudsen wrote a very good article " An Iron Age Cloak with
Tabletwoven Borders: a New Interpretation of the Method of Production" which explains in great detail the method used to weave a tablet woven
border onto a completed piece of fabric. I used this article as basis for weaving the tablet woven border onto the apron dress. I altered the method
described in the article by using the fringes at the base of the dress instead of using the loops in the salvage and a separate weft.
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
1. Candace Crockett, Card Weaving, Interweave Press, Inc. Loveland, Colorado, 1973, p. 12-17
2. Peter Collingwood, The Techniques of Tablet Weaving, Robin and Russ Handweavers, Inc. McMinnville, Oregon. 1982. p. 106-110
3. Bertil Almgren, The Viking, Nordbok International, Gothenburg, Sweden, 1971,
1. The World of the Vikings, York Archaeological Trust and the National Museum of Denmark, Past and Forward Limited.
4. Jonathan Wooding, The Vikings,Rizzoli International Publications, Inc. New York, NY,
5. Gram-Campbell, The Cultural Atlas of the Viking World, Andromeda Oxford Limited, Oxfordshire, England 1994.
6. Peter Sawyer Editor, The Oxford Illustrated History of the Vikings, Oxford University Press, New York, NY, 1997
7. Else Roesdahl, The Vikings, Penguin Books Ltd. New York, NY 1998. P. 37
8. Betty Linn Davenport, Hands on Rigid Heddle Weaving, Interweave Press, Loveland, Colorado 1987.
9. Lise Raeder Knudsen, " An Iron Age Cloak with Tabletwoven Borders: a New Interpretation of the Method of Production." Twist Tablet
Weavers' International Studies and Techniques Fall 1999 Volume VI Issue 3.
Back to Isabel's A&S page.
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